By Laura Nickoll
This plush Covent Garden facsimile of the institution that is Manhattan’s Balthazar has passed its five year mark, and though it has drawn scant praise from London’s restaurant critics it has, regardless, become somewhat of an institution itself. The eleven menus cover every permutation of all-day eating, from ‘le petit dejeuner’ and brunch through to afternoon tea, prix fixe and dinner proper, and decadent French bistro comfort food is the calling card throughout, with the odd British classic (shepherd’s pie, perhaps) thrown in.
What to eat? Prices are hefty, so to leave your wallet relatively unmolested your best bet is to book ahead for the very serviceable prix fixe, which takes in soufflé, salmon rillette, risotto, seafood linguine and hachis parmentier.
Pipsqueak tip The children’s menu features macaroni cheese, burgers, fish goujons, spaghetti and moules frites, with ice cream or sorbet to finish.