By Laura Nickoll
Why go? Jacob Kenedy’s Soho restaurant has sustained an acclaimed reputation as purveyor of regional Italian food since it opened its doors over a decade ago. An enlightening gastronomic tour offering a daily-changing menu of small and large plates, each attributed to its region of origin (20 regions in all) taking in familiar, exquisitely rendered cucina rustica.
What to eat? A lot of the menu is organized into small and large options, perfect for sharing. Depending on the day’s menu, we recommend the Bocconcini, Truffled Radish Salad, Orecchiette With ’Nduja, Arancini, Aubergine Parmigiana from Campania, and the Pork And Foie Gras Sausage. Or perhaps try something more obscure such as the Tripe with Guanciale, Tuscan sweet salame of pig’s blood with chocolate for pudding.
Pipsqueak tip This place is special but comfortable – the perfect description for a restaurant that you’d like to dine out with the kids. For children, pasta is a good bet, perhaps spaghetti with clams or tagliatelle with ragu. You can’t go wrong with a bowl of gelati (Kenedy runs the successful geletaria Gelupo across the street) or ‘grandpa’s balls’ of deep-fried ricotta and chocolate.