By Laura Nickoll
This vast brasserie from the Gordon Ramsay empire has swagger (why, of course) and its globally-inspired menu is a please-all affair, which fits the bill both for the suited and booted city types on their lunch breaks or post-work hangouts and tourists with St Paul’s Cathedral in their sights. Diners expecting kitchen alchemy may be left wanting, but the touch of finesse amidst bistro classics makes for satisfying plates of food.
What to eat? Half the extensive menu features lighter fare – starters, salads and sides – and the rest is gutsier meat and fish dishes, with a Josper grill giving Dingley Dell pork chops, poussins, rib-eye steak and lamb cutlets, not the mention the native and rare breed prime beef cuts, a deep, flavoursome char. We also like the chalk stream river trout, late summer vegetables, clams and mussels in an aromatic broth, and the burger with Monterey Jack cheese and chips.
Pipsqueak tip Kids eat free all day, every day. And on Sundays there’s entertainment, including face painting and a magician.