Why go? It’s still hard to get a prime time table at this Paris-via-New York-via-Paris stunner, but luckily for many families, you might just be interested in some not-so-prime time seating times. It is often possible to grab a walk-in table at breakfast, and at lunch it’s such a buzzy scene that no one will bat an eyelash at the toddler on the banquette..
What to eat? Lunch is prix fixe, but they will almost certainly be offering the Quenelle de brochet, sauce américaine — which is a must-order, and could also work for those diners who don’t have a full set of teeth yet. Breakfast is a la carte, featuring one of the finest omelette fines herbs this side of the Atlantic.
Pipsqueak tip It is relatively easy to be unobtrusive here, but best to book ahead and mention baby so there are no surprises for the staff.