By Laura Nickoll
A feverish buzz attended the opening of this revamped Hackney pub in 2015, as renowned chefs Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram (ex St John) were taking the helm. Fast forward a few years and its got itself a reputation for some of the best no-frills British food in town. The pub downstairs is resolutely still a local boozer, though children are welcome there as well as in the smarter upstairs dining room. Simple, even spartan, dishes change daily and speak volumes about the chefs’ pride of Britain’s culinary heritage: each and every one is masterfully cooked.
What to eat? Their specialities include a beef and barley bun with horseradish cream and epic pies for two, but it’s their legendary Sunday lunch that many travel for. Roast Hereford beef and Yorkshire pudding or a whole roast Swaledale chicken with bread sauce (for two) share the compelling roster with pork belly and rabbit pie: gutsy stuff. To finish, the signature brown butter and honey tart exemplifies superb pastry chef.
Pipsqueak tip The children’s menu is a great deal—£14 for a half portion of their pork or beef, plus a scoop of ice cream.