By Laura Nickoll
Stevie Parle’s Palatino sends out stonkingly good evocations of the flavours and culinary traditions of Rome in a modern industrial-chic space in Clerkenwell, with soft edges thanks to mustard-coloured booths. Set out in a manner conducive to eating the Italian way, the menu is full-flavoured, gutsy fare, and there’s plenty for children to tuck into.
What to eat? There are familiar classics like gnocchi alla Romana with garlic and wild mushrooms, panzanella or cacio e pepe (a gloriously simple Roman pasta dish of pecorino and pepper), and those which are less familiar – Jewish dishes such as cod and clam hraimi with couscous and rigatoni with veal pajata (pasta with veal intestine).
Pipsqueak tip Pasta dishes are served all day, even between the lunch and dinner menu — great for those who get hungry at off hours.