By Laura Nickoll

Quips galore run scatter-gun through Jesse Dunford Wood’s delightful menu at Parlour, a family-friendly all-day dining room housed in a revived local boozer in Kensal Rise. It’s an impressive roster of every permutation of hearty British food that you could dream up, cooked with lack of pretension but considerable skill (and a healthy dose of nostalgia); think cow pie, blue cheese custard with lots of bits to dip and ‘back door’ smoked salmon with ‘that soda bread’.

What to eat? Grown-ups and kids alike are hard-pressed to find something they won’t love. A seasonal set lunch might be Yukon Gold potato soup with sour cream, followed by scrumpy glazed pulled pork and carrot with mustardy potatoes, cheese and oat biscuits and locally scrumped pear jelly with honeyed almonds.

Pipsqueak tip There is always ‘Something for the Little Uns’  – popcorn chicken, mac ‘n’ cheese with broccoli trees, or baby burger, perhaps, followed by arctic rolls or a toasted marshmallow Wagon Wheel (aught to try that at home…).

Tue–Sun 10:00 AM–Midnight