Source: Coal Shed
By Laura Nickoll
From coast to capital, but still keeping close to the water, this rather sleek ‘meat, fish, fire’ restaurant is the first outpost of Brighton’s successful Coal Shed. There’s nothing shy and retiring about its riverside site: the dining room’s ensconced in the gleaming new One Tower Bridge development and no expense has been spared.
What to eat? Meat and fish roasted over fire (a Josper charcoal grill) is the raison d’etre, yet the starters, sides and snacks are by no means understudies: refined fish soup or a punchy BBQ octopus with aubergine, kombu and xo gets things off to a good start. The beef is Scottish and dry-aged for 35 days minimum, with lists of weights and cuts chalked up on a blackboard, and fire-roasted shellfish and fish come from the South coast.
Pipsqueak tip Family-style dining on Sundays is encouraged, with the roast sirloin Sharing Roast keeping things traditional. Keep an eye out for ‘children eat for free’ offers on the school holidays.