By Laura Nickoll
Celebrated French chef Claude Bosi took the helm at the iconic Michelin House in Kensington, once the HQ for the Michelin Tyre Company, and remarkably (though rather aptly) has already won the kitchen two Michelin stars. The menu reads as a paean to haute cuisine – delicate dishes of unabashed luxury – until Bosi makes his inimitable mark and takes you off-road with ‘my mum’s tripe and cuttlefish gratin with pig’s ear and ham cake’, a dish close to his heart yet just as painstakingly wrought as everything else. He reimagines other classics of French cuisine too, and draws on his Lyonnaise heritage to make Bibendum fully his own. The oyster bar on the ground floor offers a more casual set-up yet the restaurant proper upstairs is what’s garnering the rave reviews, and children are welcomed.
What to eat? Opt for the set lunch – unless younger diners are up for the fully immersive experience – which is half the cost of going a la carte. Dishes might include roasted celeriac consommé with Medjool dates and English kohlrabi, followed by Cornish cod ‘Grenobloise’ or anything from the lunch carvery broche, finishing with the ice cream trolley (including warm honey Madeleines), seasonal dessert or cheese.
Pipsqueak tip Request a high chair or space at the table for a pram when you book. The kitchen can prepare something simple for children, based on the produce they have that day; maybe plain fish, vegetables, or some roast chicken.