Source: Bonnie Gull
By Laura Nickoll
‘Shack’ by name, shack by nature, albeit a cosmopolitan riff on a knocked-together seaside hut, replete with white and blue tablecloths and nautical decor. Flavours pack a punch and the superlative seafood is left to speak for itself. The flagship Fitzrovia branch offers the conventional starter-main-pud format, but at its more diminutive no-bookings Soho outpost the emphasis is on small plates and bar-stool dining. If you’ve got a buggy, opt for Fitzrovia.
What to eat? Vocal about its advocacy for (and commitment to) sustainable seafood, Bonnie Gull’s fish comes in fresh every day from Britain’s coastal waters, and what the boat brings in ends up impeccably cooked, with thoughtful flavour combinations. Tomato gazpacho, Selsey white crab, marinated Isle of Wight tomatoes and devilled crab toast might start things off, followed by a shellfish platter to share, bouillabaisse or day-boat hake with tempura crab courgette flower and red pepper bisque.
Pipsqueak tip Children can get small portions of fish and chips (no frozen fish fingers here), or perhaps they’d prefer a bowl of clams with chunks of bread for mopping up the salty juices.