By Laura Nickoll
Seafood is the main draw at Nathan Outlaw’s eponymous, Michelin-starred dining room in the luxury Capital hotel. Though the concise menu here also features meat, Outlaw and head chef Tom Brown confer to create modern, fiercely seasonal dishes with a distinct nod to the Cornish coast. Their dedication to serving impeccable produce, cooked with finesse yet not overly fussed with, is palpable on the palate.
What to eat? We recommend bass with Port Isaac sauce and cabbage or Cornish rarebit tart with beetroot, walnut and thyme. The set lunch is a steal for what you get: Cornish fish soup to start before hake with roast chicken and mushroom dressing and smoked leeks, and maybe a delectable treacle tart with vanilla ice cream and raspberries to finish things off.
Pipsqueak tip Children can tuck into small portions of mains.